How to Replace a Pop-Up Drain Pivot Rod (Ball Rod)
Under a bathroom sink with a pop-up stopper, a horizontal rod runs into the back of the drain and holds the stopper. Pull up on the lift rod behind the faucet and this rod pivots on a ball held in a port on the back of the drain and moves the stopper. Moen says that when a pop-up drain is not closing or opening properly, it is caused by either a broken pivot rod or an issue with the adjustment of the pivot rod or lift rod, and that a broken rod will need to be replaced.
This guide is about that rod, its nut and its seal. It covers the drip at the nut, the checks to make first, and how to measure and fit a new rod. If the stopper itself is the problem, see our guide to replacing a pop-up sink stopper. To replace the whole drain, see the pop-up drain guide.
Is this your drain?
Look under the sink at the back of the drain pipe. If a horizontal rod runs into a threaded nut there and connects to a flat strap with holes, you have a pivot rod drain. Our part page describes it that way. Push-button or clicker drains, lift-and-turn stoppers, toe-touch drains and grid drains do not use a pivot rod, so this guide does not apply to them.
The makers name these parts differently, which matters when you shop. Moen says pivot rod, pivot rod nut, pivot rod seat and lift rod strap. Delta says horizontal rod, pivot nut and strap. Kohler and Pfister say ball rod, and Pfister calls the strap the clevis. American Standard says pivot rod, pivot nut, seal and extension.
What you see, and what to check first
| What you see | Check first | Source |
|---|---|---|
| A drip at the nut on the back of the drain | Tighten the nut slightly. If it still leaks, replace the gasket or washer | HomeTips |
| The stopper does not move smoothly | The pivot rod nut may be too tight and need loosening | The Home Depot |
| The stopper will not open or close properly | A broken pivot rod, or the adjustment of the pivot rod or lift rod | Moen |
| The stopper will not stay up or down | A rusted pivot rod can let the connection to the stopper come loose | HomeServe |
| The lift rod moves but the stopper does not | Our part page lists it as a sign the rod needs replacing | Our part page |
If you are not sure which of these you have, our sister site has a short page on what to do when a broken pivot rod is the likely cause.
The nut is a balance. HomeTips says do not overtighten it: the pivot rod must still move freely. Natural Handyman warns that an overly loose pivot nut may also be the source of mysterious leaks. So before you buy anything, try snugging the nut by hand while someone works the lift rod.
This job does not open the water supply, but keep the faucet closed while the nut is off so nobody runs water through the open port, and put a towel or small bowl under the nut because water left in the drain can run out. Both points are our own caution: none of the maker pages we read gives a water step for this part. Do not force a nut that will not turn, and stop if the drain body moves when you turn it. That is the point to call a plumber, which is also our own advice.
What you need
- A new pivot rod that matches your old one. Measure the old rod first, as step 4 explains. Our kit has the rod, a brass pivot nut, a seat washer and a spring clip; the clevis strap is not included, so you reuse yours.
- Adjustable pliers, which our part page lists for this job. HomeTips loosens the nut by hand or with pliers if necessary.
- A ruler, a rag and a flashlight.
Step by step
Step 1: Clear the cabinet and close the faucet
Empty the space under the sink so you can see the back of the drain, close the faucet and put a towel under the nut.
Step 2: Free the rod from the strap
Squeeze the ends of the spring clip together and slide it along the rod, as American Standard and Kohler describe, then slide the rod out of the strap. Note which hole of the strap the rod came out of, so the stopper sits at the same height later. That note is our own tip.
Step 3: Unscrew the pivot nut and pull the rod
Unscrew the nut that holds the rod to the drain counterclockwise, as Pfister says. HomeTips loosens it by hand or with pliers if necessary. Then pull the rod straight out of the drain. Before you set it down, look at two things: where the seal or washer sat, and whether the short end of the rod went through the hole in the stopper or under it. Drains differ on both, which the next steps cover.
Step 4: Measure the old rod
Rods are not one size. Measure the old one end to end, the distance from the short end to the ball, the size of the ball and the thickness of the rod, and compare all four with the new rod.
| Rod | Length | Listed by |
|---|---|---|
| Danco 88532, sold as universal | 5.9 in. | Danco, SupplyHouse |
| Pfister 132915 ball rod assembly | 6 in. | Ferguson |
| Delta RP12517 horizontal rod | 6-1/8 in. | SupplyHouse |
| Moen 12689 pivot rod and clip | 6-1/4 in. | Ferguson |
| FourHome pivot rod kit | 6-1/2 in., 5/8 in. ball | Our part page |
| Delta RP33805 rod for a metal pop-up | 10-1/8 in. | Ferguson |
Lengths as each source lists them. SupplyHouse's listing for Moen 12689 says it must only be used where the manufacturer specifies that exact part number, so for a Moen drain, check Moen's part first.
Step 5: Check the seat in the drain
Where the seal sits depends on the drain. On the Moen drains we checked, a white nylon pivot rod seat is tucked in the pivot rod opening with the cupped side facing out, and Moen says to make sure it is in place; Moen sells it on its own as part 16015. Pfister says to check the washer to make sure it sits firmly on the end of the ball. Our kit's seat washer slides onto the rod against the ball, on the nut side. If your drain has a seat in the opening, our own reading is that it stays where it is, as long as it is not cracked or missing.
Step 6: Fit the new rod
Kohler says to fit the short end of the rod into the body seal hole and under the stopper for regular installations, or through the hole in the stopper for vandal-resistant ones. Moen and Delta describe the same two setups. To pass it through, lift the stopper so the hole at its foot lines up with the opening in the drain, as Pfister shows, then thread the rod through and wiggle it up and down to make sure the stopper moves.
Step 7: Washer and nut, hand tight
Slide the seat washer, then the brass nut, onto the long end of the rod, check that the washer sits firmly on the end of the ball, and thread the nut on, as our part page says. Delta and American Standard both say to hand tighten the pivot nut, and Moen says the same for its plastic nut. Tighten it by hand until it stops, and do not overtighten. Natural Handyman warns that an overtightened pivot nut can stop the pop-up from working at all, or even break.
Step 8: Reconnect the strap and set the height
The Home Depot pushes the pivot rod through one end of the spring clip, then through the closest hole in the clevis strap, and Moen places the clip over the strap hole and squeezes it. Our own tip is to use the hole you noted in step 2, then squeeze the clip and pass the rod through its other end. HomeTips says the spring clip pinches onto the pivot rod and keeps the clevis strap from slipping off. Kohler says to move the linkage up or down to a different hole to adjust the stopper movement, and gives about 3/8 inch of stopper lift when open; Pfister asks for at least 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Our stopper guide has more on setting the lift at the strap.
Step 9: Test for leaks
Delta says to run water and check for leaks, and Kohler says to inspect for leaks. Fill the basin with the stopper closed, then open it and watch the nut while the water drains. If the nut weeps, snug it a little by hand. The rod must still move freely.
When to stop and call a plumber
Each of these is our own advice, not a maker rule.
- The nut will not turn by hand or with gentle pliers, or the drain body turns with it.
- The threads on the pivot port are damaged, so the nut will not start or will not hold.
- The drip comes from somewhere else: the drain flange under the basin, the slip nuts on the trap, or the drain body itself.
- A new rod, washer and nut are in, and the joint still leaks.
Frequently asked questions
Is a ball rod the same as a pivot rod?
Yes. It is the same part under different names. Moen and American Standard call it the pivot rod, Delta calls it the horizontal rod, and Kohler and Pfister call it the ball rod. It is the rod that runs from the back of the drain to the strap under the sink.
Why does the nut on the back of my sink drain drip?
HomeTips says the pivot retaining nut may be loose, or the pivot gasket may need replacement. Its fix is to tighten the retaining nut slightly and, if it still leaks, replace the pivot gasket or washer. It also says not to overtighten the nut, because the pivot rod must still move freely.
Are pop-up pivot rods universal?
Not really. The rods we found listed run from 5.9 inches to 10-1/8 inches long, and a retailer listing for Moen 12689 says it must only be used where the manufacturer specifies that part number. Measure the old rod, the position and size of its ball, and match the nut before you order.
Does the rod go through the hole in the stopper?
It can go either way. Moen, Kohler and Delta all describe two setups: the rod through the hole in the stopper, which keeps the stopper from being pulled out, or next to or under it, so the stopper lifts out for cleaning. Pfister threads the rod through the hole. Put yours back the way the old one was set.
Do I need to take the drain out to replace the rod?
No. The rod comes out from under the sink. Kohler describes it as a rod inserted into the side of the drain and attached with a nut, and the steps are to unthread the nut and pull the rod out. Taking the drain out is a different job, covered in our pop-up drain guide.
Sources
The steps above come from these pages and from our own part page, except where a step says the advice is our own. We opened each one on October 12, 2026, and checked them again on November 3, 2026. Retailer pages are used only for rod sizes.
- Moen, Pop up drain assembly not closing or opening properly, waste assembly installation guide INS10204, Bathroom Faucet Drains: All Metal 10790 and Bathroom Faucet Drains: Nonmetallic 14526.
- Delta, Metal Pop-Up Assembly instructions 85210, model 72177, hosted by Lowe's.
- Kohler, lavatory pop-up drain instructions 115999-2 and Adjusting Pop Up Drains.
- Pfister, My pop up drain is not draining water.
- American Standard, Town Square S instructions M965900, hosted by The Home Depot, and 4 in. centerset lavatory faucet instructions 34063M-B, hosted by PlumbersStock.
- Danco, Universal Bathroom Pull Rod Assembly.
- The Home Depot, How to Install a Pop-Up Drain.
- HomeTips, sink pop-up stopper repair; Natural Handyman, Bathroom Sink Stopper and Pop-Up Problems; HomeServe, How to Fix a Sink Stopper.
- Rod sizes: SupplyHouse, Danco 88532, Ferguson, Pfister 132915, SupplyHouse, Delta RP12517, Ferguson, Moen 12689, SupplyHouse, Moen 12689 and Ferguson, Delta RP33805.
- FourHome part page: Pop-up drain pivot ball rod, 6-1/2 in.
Pivot rods, stoppers, pop-up drains, stems and cartridges, shipped from Amazon fulfillment centers with Prime delivery.
See the full FourHome assortment on AmazonFourHome is an independent brand and is not affiliated with Moen, Delta, Kohler, Pfister, American Standard, Danco or the other publishers cited. Brand names and part numbers are used only to identify sizes or to cite their published instructions. Keep the faucet closed while the nut is off, do not force a nut, and call a licensed plumber for anything beyond a rod, washer and nut swap.
FourHome is not affiliated with or endorsed by any faucet manufacturer. Brand names and part numbers are used only to identify compatibility.